(a) it is slotted to permit assembly and function with the redesigned right side plate. The accelerator is redesigned to permit assembly and function with the redesigned trigger arm.(c) the lock frame is slotted to permit assembly and function with the redesigned right side plate. (b) a trigger return spring and a redundant trigger return plunger mount to the spacer (a) a spacer is used to mount a trigger stop. (b) the bolt is slotted to permit assembly and function with the redesigned right side plate. (a) the machining prevents the installation of a standard model 1919 sear plate. The bolt is machined to accept the above described sear plate.(b) the trigger will not re-engage the sear plate unless the trigger is released after each shot is fired. (a) the trigger engagement surface of the sear plate is wider than a standard model 1919. The sear plate is wider than a standard model 1919 sear plate.(c) the forward portion of the trigger arm is spring loaded to act as a disconnector. (b) the forward engagement surface of the trigger is incompatible with a standard model 1919 sear plate. (a) the trigger incorporates a return spring. The trigger is redesigned to permit only a single shot to be fired each time the trigger is pulled.(b) it is permanently attached to the trunion, top plate and bottom plate with deep, penetrating TIG welds (BATFE has subsequently dropped this requirement). (a) it is slotted to permit assembly and function with a redesigned barrel extension, lock frame and bolt. The right sideplate is thicker than a standard model 1919 right sideplate.FAL Tutorial: Installing FAL Israel Gas Block.If you don't have a press you can make the bolt cutter riveters like in this link. I used a cheap angle grinder with a thin cut off wheel to cut and shape the bolt.īe careful not to get the bolt too hot when grinding, because that will take the temper out of the steel & you will need to get another bolt to start over. You will need to buy a 4" or 5" or longer bolt so you can cut off the threaded part If you have a bench grinder it will take a bit of time. It helps to keep the bolt as short as possible. negative., Harbor Freight 24'bolt cutters are 16. Here is a sketch showing you how it fits inside the receiver, so you can squeeze the rivets. press you can make a riveter out of a 3/4" grade 8 bolt. To do the center support rivet I turn the bucking plate over & only use the #2 crushing pin to form the head.How do you do the short rivets on the trunnion? Notice the bucking plate on the bottom it has two holes for holding the rivet head, the one that you can see is used for RPKs & Yugos with bulged trunnions the chamfered edge sets next to the bulge. To do the center support rivet I turn the bucking plate over & only use the #2 crushing pin to form the head. The top spacer is open on the front to allow view of the forming rivet.(arrow) It uses this piece of box steel I picked at the scrap yard, a 3/4" bolt with a 5/16" hole through it's axis, & hardened steel 5/16" pins.Įach pin has a little different cup cut in the end of them for various types of rivets, one with tape on it is to align the jig at the start of the process. Unless you are good at metal work I would just buy one. Granted those rivets are pretty soft, but still. You can use this with a hammer, air hammer or press with this jig. What modification is made to a 36 inch bolt cutter to make it an AK rivet tool. It is a good jig for builders just getting started because you can go slow as you want & see the rivet head form as you go. I have posted this jig on this forum a few times but I can't find it when I need it so I'll post it again. Here is a variety of a few rifles I've built: I don't have any close ups of the rivets themselves. So far I've done about 50 AK's using this tool. This it tap rapidly as I keep the rivet forming tool moving.įrom start to finish it takes me about five minutes to form a "perfect" rivet that matches the Russian formed other side head. I finish the head using a 6 ounce ball peen hammer. Once I seat the rivet in the rear trunnion,I use my two pound sledge hammer to form the rivet head into the rough shape I want. They do not have to be heated in order to make a nice round head. The rivets I use are of Russian make and are bimetallic. This plate holds the rivet in place and supports the factory formed rivet head in place. I also made a bucking-plate of steel plate that too had the same type of female hole. I Took my Dremel tool and made a female hole on one end that is the shape of the rivet head I wanted. It is a steel rod that is harder than the rivet. I've been building AK's for 20 years now.
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